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Imagemagick plus minus betting

Shoot a master white balance exposure with no film in the film stage. It will look more film like than a single exposure will. For the slide mounts Have you thought about using a flatbed scanner to scan the slide mounts?

You could probably scan 20 mounted slides at a go on a standard flatbed. Is there information on the front and back of the mounts? May end up doing HDR. I've got an Arsenal coming which can automate the HDR process.

That may vary from slide to slide. Most of the slide are ektachrome, not kodachrome, and getting stellar pix isn't critical. LED panels. CRI index of the best panel I've found so far is only The flash is a well known light source. May end up with an LED panel. You could shoot the whole 2X2 slide framing would be 2X3.

You would have to have front and back lighting adjusted for proper exposure. So if you have a 24MP sensor the slide would be 6MP at X pixels, which may be enough for most uses. If you have a high MP sensor it would be better. If you can force yourself to do a day with weekends off you'll be at it for more than a year. I used an auto-feeding scanner to do my own or so slides - without photographing the mounts - and it still took months to complete the job.

Scanner: I've got a flatbed, but then collating two mount images with each slide image becomes a fussy and error prone task. Autofocusing will greatly speed things up. The OP wants to photograph the slide and both sides of the mount and repeat the whole process 30, times. Total of slides an hour. Yeah, it's a long project. I'm hoping that with practice I can tighten the interval. As to transcribing metadata.

No kidding. First pass just puts monthstamp in. This does a lot to organize by topic. Then for each month stamp split into what appear to be obvious sub projects. Check for overlap from month before and month after. But yeah. I bet it will average a minute per slide even with that.

I'm hoping for a process that takes 5 to 10 seconds a slide, but I think 20 So: Remove slide from slide page 3 seconds With one hand pick up slide present at that station, and with other had put new slide in place hit shutter 3 seconds. Since it sounds like you have the slides in pages, try my suggestion of using the desktop scanner to scan 20 of them at one go. A single attempt at scanning a single page should tell you whether that is workable.

For each sub project try to subdivide again into clusters that can all be seen on the screen at once I have 3 monitors Now I do most of the common keywords in batches. It is a lifesaver when it comes to adding metadata. His advice about how to set up metadata presets is invaluable.

I'm hoping for a process that takes 5 to 10 seconds a slide, but I think 20 So: Remove slide from slide page 3 seconds. What about inspection, dusting and cleaning? Slides that have been handled at all will have some dust, and some may have fingerprints or sticky stuff. If you're only doing this for a record that may not be important, but if you ever plan to use the photos for presentation or print it becomes an issue. With one hand pick up slide present at that station, and with other had put new slide in place hit shutter 3 seconds.

And dust -- I hate to bring it up again -- but some spotting is almost guaranteed, unless you are doing these only for record purposes and it specks don't matter. Most cameras will capture far more info than contained in a slide. Then I'd build a rig that does two things.

It illuminates the slide with suitable backlighting, and with a periscope style mirror setup, captures the front and rear of the slide. Might be a bit daunting, but could also be a bit of fun. Get 4 small mirrors online, a few clamps. Figure out where everything needs to sit and build a frame. I suspect it may be a lot more fun than reconfiguring the cameras several thousand times. Sphere is the back light. Rear mirrors on the left. Front mirror on right. View from the camera, with slide lower centre and the two reflected views above it smaller rectangles..

AND a second camera with zoom lens and sidelights to shoot the mount, and back light to show the frame, manual exposure so a light slide doesn't muck up the mount pic. B: Do it all with one camera. I had a thought today about how to do this straightforwardly with a single set up but at the cost of ultimate resolution. Use a jig to hold the mounted slide and use a lens that can focus to a two inch area on the short side of the camera format.

Two inches because that is width and height of a 35mm slide mount. As I said in my first sentence such a set up will be at the expense of ultimate resolution. This means that at best, assuming you are using a full frame or APS-C format camera and not a medium format camera, the image area of the mounted slide will cover only 25 percent of the sensor 1x1.

The Tamron F2. So how does it perform? Read our review to find out. Sony's FE 35mm F1. It's well-built and is pretty compact, but it's still not quite perfect. Find out all the details in our field review. We take a look beyond the specs to see what it offers to filmmakers.

We look at what the camera offers and who it might make sense for. Fujifilm's X-E4 is the most compact X-mount camera Fujifilm has yet produced, but that doesn't make it any less competitive. Take a look at how the X-E4 stacks up and what we make of it in our initial review.

If you're looking for a high-quality camera, you don't need to spend a ton of cash, nor do you need to buy the latest and greatest new product on the market. In our latest buying guide we've selected some cameras that might be a bit older but still offer a lot of bang for the buck. Whether you make a living out of taking professional portraits, or are the weekend warrior who knows their way around flashes and reflectors, you'll want a camera with high resolution, exceptional autofocus and a good selection of portrait prime lenses.

Click through to see our picks. What's the best camera for shooting landscapes? High resolution, weather-sealed bodies and wide dynamic range are all important. In this buying guide we've rounded-up several great cameras for shooting landscapes, and recommended the best. What's the best camera for travel? Good travel cameras should be small, versatile, and offer good image quality.

In this buying guide we've rounded-up several great cameras for travel and recommended the best. Submit a News Tip! Reading mode: Light Dark. Login Register. Best cameras and lenses. All forums Open Talk Change forum. Started Sep 25, Discussions. Sep 25, Found some really good threads on slide copying here.

But I have a new criterion. So discussion time: Thoughts about my process? Anyone else faced with this sort of problem? Swapping them over would be tiresome but you could do it every 20 slides or so. D Cox's gear list: D Cox's gear list. I use the command line tools that come in the Imagemagick package; I think I installed it on my system with MacPorts. You could also choose to install with brew brew install imagemagick. The actual tool you want to use from Imagemagick is the convert tool.

If you have your two x images, say a. With convert, you can do a ton of other things. For example, you can switch to a different image format for the output. This isn't a GUI application, but maybe some others might have a better solution. Alternatively, you could put this in some sort of automator script. This solution uses only Preview and may be handy if you can't install software on a machine.

It is, however, not elegant. Since, of course, Preview does not offer any proper image editing tools and no way to exactly position the two images, the ImageMagick solutions posted here are preferable. How to do this with the tools to hand: Preview. This will be saved as a. Double click on this along with your two existing images to open them in Preview. Select each of your two images in turn and go command a Select All and command c Copy.

Switch to your blank background image, command v Paste each in turn dragging them into position next to each other. You can scale them by dragging their handles, and nudge them a pixel at a time with your cursor keys. Disclaimer : If you are not familiar with the Unix command line , you may want to pick one of the GUI-oriented solutions that others have posted. Install the ImageMagick graphics suite, e. In my experience, Homebrew is the quickest, most hassle-free option.

Once you have ImageMagick installed, it's simple. Using Terminal, navigate to the directory containing the images, and create a combined version with a command such as:. Speaking of free GUI tools, Seashore app is an open source project much better at working with images than Preview.

It has better tools much on the lines of popular editors including shortcuts and I guess if you try you should be doing just fine without much help from us. The simplest way I know uses Preview. Open both photos with Preview, position their windows side-by-side flush in front of your desktop and then use Preview's "Take a screen shot" command with the "from Selection" option. Select around the perimeter of both photos together and it will create a montage for you.

It will merge your images and do a thousand other things besides. Highly recommended. The easiest way is to use Graphic Converter. Open the Convert and Modify window, select all the images you want to stitch together on the left hand selection pane, and select a folder for the output in the right hand selection pane otherwise you might overwrite your originals. Click GO LHS at bottom , this will open a dialogue box that asks if you want them arranged in a row only, column only or a matrix of N x M images.

I make all kinds of pictures in Pages, then save the page as a pdf. I open the pdf in Preview and resave it as a jpg. Then I import the jpg in iphoto and do whatever I want to it there - crop it or play with the colors etc. Then I mail it to myself in whatever size I want. This is serious silliness by most people's standards. There is Graphic Converter free to try. So you could: open new picture x ; then in turn open each of the components, copy all, and paste into the new picture.

Drag them into place where you want them. Then Save As Actually, there is a much simpler way to combine two photos into one page one pdf on a Mac. Adjust the size of photos and placement on the slide. Save the slide or file as a PDF. However if you want to merge two photos into one with one merging into the other there are other apps out there which can do it for you. This is probably quite old, but for people who still encounter this stuff I just had to merge 2 sides of my card which is the new "car papers".

I tend to use pixlr. Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. How to combine two images into one on a Mac? Ask Question. Asked 8 years, 8 months ago. Active 2 months ago. Viewed k times. Improve this question. Jonik Jonik 5, 10 10 gold badges 50 50 silver badges 76 76 bronze badges.

This might help. I use Magnet. Then screenshot. It's ridiculous that Mac doesn't have a built-in simple tool to copy-paste one image into another one. Add a comment. Active Oldest Votes. Improve this answer. I'm confused. This method degrades the image quality.

Any way to preserve the image quality when using the convert command? This is dope. This still works in ! It's really cool. It's much simpler and time-saving than to use the Preview app. As of and using version 7 of imagemagick, the syntax for the imagemagick command is magick a.

See here: superuser. Say your images are called A and B. Then: Open A in Preview. Select All, Copy. In the Tools menu, select Size and adjust the width to the sum of the width of the two images in your example, px. Keep the height. This will result in a stretched version of A. Paste the copy of the original A and move it manually to the left.

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The oddsmakers want equal action on both sides because if they can do that, they reduce the risk of taking any big losses and guarantee their profit on the juice from each bet. This is why casinos and sportsbooks employ professional oddsmakers to set the lines that are most likely to draw equal interest on both sides of the bet. That way the casino makes a profit on the commission regardless of which team wins.

The value the house earns from this line is called the juice or vigorish. Basically, you can think of it as the cost of running a business. No pun intended. Take a look at which are the sportsbooks with the fastest withdrawal. When it comes to the different sportsbooks out there it is possible to find different point spread lines but generally, most sportsbooks will have similar stats.

It is worth a look to scan the various betting lines when you intend to bet on a big game, that is why WSN will always list the odds from several sportsbooks for each event. You can check out the different sportsbooks and compare them here. Things like this happen because a sportsbook wants to reduce risk to guarantee a profit. When incoming betting shows an imbalance of public opinion or if a whale decides to make a big splash the casino will do whatever they can to tip the scales back to even avoid a potentially big loss.

Taking advantage of a nickel line can give the savvy bettor an edge in both the short and the long run. The casinos sometimes roll it the other way and move lines to or so pay close attention. Even if you skipped math in high school and preferred to spell funny words upside down on your calculator, getting the gist of the math in sports betting is more about habit and routine than anything else.

And if you do have trouble getting your head around the concept, many online sportsbooks have a simplified payout format that lets you enter the amount you want to bet to see how much it will pay out before you actually place your bet or submit your ticket. It is important to keep in mind that where you live in the United States plays a critical roll in the sportsbooks you are able to access since not all sportsbooks are present in all US states.

To make it easier for you WSN has provided a State by State Guide to clearly show you the info you need to know to start legally betting. If you want to keep up with sports betting tips and tricks subscribe to our weekly betting podcast, Wise Kracks. Odds with Minus Sign Favorite The minus sign shows you which team is favored. ImageMagick Skip to content. Quick links. Get difference between two images, transperency result. Questions and postings pertaining to the usage of ImageMagick regardless of the interface.

Usage questions are like "How do I use ImageMagick to create drop shadows? This result should be transperency with color yellow alpha so like it on 1st image. I was reading from the tutorial, but from the tutorial difference was like image no transperency Re: Get difference between two images, transperency result.

Can you explain further? Do you have an example showing your desired output. If we knew exactly what you want for the output we can probably help further. Have you tried using compare to find differences. Fred's ImageMagick Scripts. Must be command convert. If we got a result, we could add transperency result to the image so give as merged layers as one image You understand?

I thought you were trying to highlight the difference between two input images in an output image. If that is not the case, please clarify the process that you desire to be implemented in IM. I do not understand how you got the second image from the first. You can always add transparency to an image by making a mask by whatever means you desire and putting it into the alpha channel of the image. Then use the command above to flatten it on yellow to highlight the former transparent vs non-transparent regions.

Is this what you want?

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If you synchronize the time settings you can rename the photos by time stamp and let your computer sort them together -- if you need that. The other option I see would be to do all the mount photos in sequence, then do the image copies in the same sequence. That would make for easier shooting, but then you would have to match up the photos in the computer.

For the mount photos I would use 1 or 2 lights to illuminate the mount and notes, then a separate light behind the slide to show the content. You could do this on a lightbox by making a mask to fit around the slide. A black mask around the white slide mount with the image exposure balanced would make a pretty classy looking record. Either way, if you have to do very many take some time to put together a setup to make it easy on your back and neck.

A few hours of this stuff can be a real killer if you are working at an awkward height or angle. And a small air compressor -- like the ones sold for airbrush -- is great for blowing dust off slides. I have mine rigged with a foot switch.

Keeping the mounts and slides together is good when sorted by timestamp I think is essential. I want to think this out well ahead of time. I have about 30, slides to do. Illuminate with flash on an off-camera cord, bouncing off a flat white surface behind the slide. Camera 2 -- set on small fine jpeg. Illuminate from the side and back.

Probably just rig LED or fluorescent table lamps. These pix don't have to be color correct. Process camera 2 shots with Imagemagick raising the contrast in the mount, and normalizing the image in the centre. I think I can script that. Wonder if I could tether both cameras to my computer to see live images as they are shot? Use a good quality LED panel as your lighting source and have a diffusion panel between the light and the film stage.

Shoot a master white balance exposure with no film in the film stage. It will look more film like than a single exposure will. For the slide mounts Have you thought about using a flatbed scanner to scan the slide mounts? You could probably scan 20 mounted slides at a go on a standard flatbed. Is there information on the front and back of the mounts? May end up doing HDR. I've got an Arsenal coming which can automate the HDR process. That may vary from slide to slide. Most of the slide are ektachrome, not kodachrome, and getting stellar pix isn't critical.

LED panels. CRI index of the best panel I've found so far is only The flash is a well known light source. May end up with an LED panel. You could shoot the whole 2X2 slide framing would be 2X3. You would have to have front and back lighting adjusted for proper exposure. So if you have a 24MP sensor the slide would be 6MP at X pixels, which may be enough for most uses.

If you have a high MP sensor it would be better. If you can force yourself to do a day with weekends off you'll be at it for more than a year. I used an auto-feeding scanner to do my own or so slides - without photographing the mounts - and it still took months to complete the job.

Scanner: I've got a flatbed, but then collating two mount images with each slide image becomes a fussy and error prone task. Autofocusing will greatly speed things up. The OP wants to photograph the slide and both sides of the mount and repeat the whole process 30, times. Total of slides an hour. Yeah, it's a long project. I'm hoping that with practice I can tighten the interval.

As to transcribing metadata. No kidding. First pass just puts monthstamp in. This does a lot to organize by topic. Then for each month stamp split into what appear to be obvious sub projects. Check for overlap from month before and month after. But yeah. I bet it will average a minute per slide even with that. I'm hoping for a process that takes 5 to 10 seconds a slide, but I think 20 So: Remove slide from slide page 3 seconds With one hand pick up slide present at that station, and with other had put new slide in place hit shutter 3 seconds.

Since it sounds like you have the slides in pages, try my suggestion of using the desktop scanner to scan 20 of them at one go. A single attempt at scanning a single page should tell you whether that is workable. For each sub project try to subdivide again into clusters that can all be seen on the screen at once I have 3 monitors Now I do most of the common keywords in batches.

It is a lifesaver when it comes to adding metadata. His advice about how to set up metadata presets is invaluable. I'm hoping for a process that takes 5 to 10 seconds a slide, but I think 20 So: Remove slide from slide page 3 seconds. What about inspection, dusting and cleaning? Slides that have been handled at all will have some dust, and some may have fingerprints or sticky stuff. If you're only doing this for a record that may not be important, but if you ever plan to use the photos for presentation or print it becomes an issue.

With one hand pick up slide present at that station, and with other had put new slide in place hit shutter 3 seconds. And dust -- I hate to bring it up again -- but some spotting is almost guaranteed, unless you are doing these only for record purposes and it specks don't matter. Most cameras will capture far more info than contained in a slide. Then I'd build a rig that does two things. It illuminates the slide with suitable backlighting, and with a periscope style mirror setup, captures the front and rear of the slide.

Might be a bit daunting, but could also be a bit of fun. Get 4 small mirrors online, a few clamps. Figure out where everything needs to sit and build a frame. I suspect it may be a lot more fun than reconfiguring the cameras several thousand times. Sphere is the back light. Rear mirrors on the left.

Front mirror on right. View from the camera, with slide lower centre and the two reflected views above it smaller rectangles.. AND a second camera with zoom lens and sidelights to shoot the mount, and back light to show the frame, manual exposure so a light slide doesn't muck up the mount pic. B: Do it all with one camera. I had a thought today about how to do this straightforwardly with a single set up but at the cost of ultimate resolution. Use a jig to hold the mounted slide and use a lens that can focus to a two inch area on the short side of the camera format.

Two inches because that is width and height of a 35mm slide mount. As I said in my first sentence such a set up will be at the expense of ultimate resolution. This means that at best, assuming you are using a full frame or APS-C format camera and not a medium format camera, the image area of the mounted slide will cover only 25 percent of the sensor 1x1. The Tamron F2. So how does it perform?

Read our review to find out. Sony's FE 35mm F1. It's well-built and is pretty compact, but it's still not quite perfect. Find out all the details in our field review. We take a look beyond the specs to see what it offers to filmmakers. We look at what the camera offers and who it might make sense for. Fujifilm's X-E4 is the most compact X-mount camera Fujifilm has yet produced, but that doesn't make it any less competitive. Take a look at how the X-E4 stacks up and what we make of it in our initial review.

If you're looking for a high-quality camera, you don't need to spend a ton of cash, nor do you need to buy the latest and greatest new product on the market. And it seems that Pixelmator has a very nice packaging already, but we want it to be even better inside. Fair enough. I think you guys are really catering to a market that is thirsty for something new. I am sure everyone is aware of the prohibitive price of photoshop… the gimp is free but pretty frustrating to use on osx and almost any other alternative is sloppy or just missing key features.

I hope pixelmator fills in the gap. I understand that you are a small company and that the software has a great price point already but surely the help of 2. I just think that if you want really good testing that you should consider offering an incentive to all of those folks who are helping you out. So I get to get in on the beta testing.

Na na na na na! Pixelmater will be the hottest selling, and most popular, Mac application within 6 months of its release. For a version 1 release it already has sooo much polish. Quality is king. As someone else said, there is a huge amount of hopes for a decent, properly and reliably functioning image editor for Mac.

This is supposed to be a BETA release. Beta releases have bugs, so why are you delaying it by trying to make it perfect? It probably also means that a 1. Something to keep in mind, however, is that there is a tendency for us programmer types to always keep adding just one more thing… forever. Michel Valdrighi. Man is this software amazing! As an avid Photoshop user I can safely say that Photoshop is going to be collecting a lot of dust. There are 2 kinds of development projects: those that slip their schedule internally with nobody else the wiser, and those that do so publicly.

The former only occurs when either nobody knows it exists, or everybody working on it refuses to name dates…. The consequence of this is that trying to predict schedules can be likened to dumping a bunch of transistors out on the table and trying to read the portents from the orientation of the leads…. But, new applications can be created that will read open file formats; and the history there is thusly not lost.

Pixelmator looks really like a serious app with serious and good people behind it… By serious I mean solid and reliable. The folks at My Dream App have not been impressive since the end of the voting, but I like that you guys are here in the comments thread answering questions and being completely honest with how things are going. Readability is diminished, you lose efficiency. At least leave an option for making the whole opaque.

Take your times, guys. But just to not to leave you without any answer: we kinda are more interested in latest Macs because of GPUs. Hmm… are you doing real-time updates of the CI filters? First I tried to find an alternative to Picasa because I never liked Iphoto that much.

Graphic Convertor is also a great photo manager that deserves much praise. The only one that seemed to almost get it right was Elements yet Adobe is trying to dumb it down more and more with every new version by taking away control from the user. I still consider version 2 the one that came with my Wacom as a good backup program to Photoshop 7. Adobe seems to be as pig-headed as ever with their monopoly of the graphics application market. They need competition. They need to be humbled.

The main reason I purchased the Macheist bundle was for the beta access to Pixelmator. I love that it looks like a true Mac application, making use of Mac-based technologies as well. Are you going to explicate the pixels calculations behind the effects?

If one is selected for the beta program, is he allowed to publish his experiences online, say on forums. Gary Says: July 26th, at am Hey! Looks like a great start to a program that will undoubtedly do very well if it delivers on what the web site has promised. And not by copying Photoshop feature for feature. Photoshop has some huge negatives against it. The biggest is that its core technology and UI are almost 20 years old.

It has received incremental changes but many of them stick out like a sore thumb in integration or lack there-of. The entire Filter menu and its contents are a total mess and modal like they belong in I hope the developers look at other programs for inspiration, even all the way back to the grand-daddy digital paint program Deluxe Paint from the Amiga. Hopefully can do some of the basic things Photoshop falls completely flat on its face attempting: Font rendering, making circles that are truly round, gradients that are even and smooth, etc.

For any pro or even semi-pro being able to see the boundaries of the brush is essential, so I really hope you plan to implement that in the first release. Otherwise Pixelmator would be close to unusable for me and many other pros and semi-pros. If anyone in the develope team read this, can you please contact me.

I did email you a few days ago about an article, but never did get a reply. Pixelmator looks better and not like a copycat in this regard because in the screencast linked above there are moveable centers for the bump and ripple filters. Jim Buckner. Beta is definitely coming today. We are just preparing. Check your mailboxes in a few hours. Andrew Creek. This is important for me if I am to keep a streamlined workflow. Great to give Photoshop some competition.

Just make sure you can convert files coming from Lightroom and Aperture, because these users will be interested in your app. Hopefully 1. Zydrunas T. Sveiki, na k?.. Linkiu s? Comments Christoph Lingg Still amazed how fast you are able to develop a powerfull image editing programm.

Achim Hi, thanx for the information! Saulius Dailide Pixelmator Team Thank you very much for your support! We really appreciate that. Saulius Dailide Pixelmator Team Sven, 1. Wes I think you guys should do pre-sales and get some money in your pockets!! Wes Fair enough. Keep up the good work and thanks for the update. I got to where I check the Pixelmater site everyday to see if there has been any updates.

Ceder Blador Quality is king. It would be nice to address all those calling this vaporware with something tangible. Britt Ethan — you do have a point… Something to keep in mind, however, is that there is a tendency for us programmer types to always keep adding just one more thing… forever. Ethan Something like BugZilla would be a good idea. It would be nice to get some update on that. Gary Hey! Better than I had hoped for!

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All the images are treated as 'source' images and the order they are listed determines the result. The 'layer' offset however is NOT gravity affected. As each image can have a separate 'canvas offset' multiple image composition is better applied using Image Layering Operators as well as Multi-Image Sequence Composition for animations.

The two styles are very different positioning techniques and it is important you use the right style for the composition techniques you plan to use. Both positioning Techniques Only one composition technique, the multi-image list Layers Composition operator, allows you to use BOTH positioning methods simultaneously.

First the two lists are globally positioned using" -geometry " and " -gravity ", which is applied to the virtual canvas size of the first image in each list. Then each individual image in the list is offset using " -page " from that global position to determine the final position. Of course if an overlay image does not fit into a specific destination image in the images provided, then it will be clipped by that image.

As such it is generally a good idea to only use fully-coalesced images for the destination image s to the appropriate size need. The resulting images can of course be trimmed in size again afterwards. Duff-Porter Alpha Composition Methods The Duff-Porter image composition methods are a traditional set of 12 methods which are very well defined. They are known as Alpha Composition as the images are merged according to some aspect of the image transparency or 'Alpha Channel'.

Here is a classical table showing the results of these 12 methods with two triangular images. Also see Raw Tables of Compose Methods with diagrams showing more composition methods with different image shapes and gradients. The default compose method when completely undefined is ' Over ', and is what most people normally want when composing images. To understand, and remember what each of the above compose methods do, the resulting image would be the same as if you said Images using this operator should NOT contain any alpha channel.

The mask is aligned to the original background image. ImageMagick v5 and before did not clear any area not overlaid by the source image. This was incorrect handling of the Duff-Porter Composition operators, and was corrected during IM v6 development.

The color of the appropriate image according to the method is preserved. The second image must be created and drawn in parenthesis. For example, say we have a red circle and want to add a highlight as if it is a 3 dimensional ball. We can create the circle, and the highlight, then overlay the highlight using ' ATop ' to limit it to the circle. The creation of the white highlight was done using " -negate " to ensure the whole image is actually white.

This was used to avoid a bug in the " -blur " operator, which has now been fixed in IM version 6. See Blur with Transparency Bug for more details of this old bug. Before IM v6. Due to IM's compliance to the SVG standard, 'green' is not a true green color like it is in X11 color names but a dark or half bright green.

A true RGB green can be specified with the color ' lime ' as we have done in the above example. For example lets negate half the rose image. See Lighten-Intensity Method below. On the other hand " Picture Publisher ", and " PhotoImpact " use the color lightness as defined by the HSL colorspace for the comparison.

For comparisions of the difference in gray-scale from various colorspaces see the example Gray-Scaling using Colorspace. This composition method is not defined by the SVG composition guide used by all the previous composition methods we have looked at so far. As such their is no real definition as to how the alpha channel should effect the pixel comparision. Added as of IM v6.

But no formal defintion for the method has been found. As such the current implementation is classed as highly experimental , and may change based on user suggestions. However the essentual idea is sound. Instead as per the SVG Specification it separately adds each channel. However the color channels are still weighted by the alpha value before being added, only the handling of the alpha values the blending differs. This is important to provide correct 'addition' of masked shapes, such as demonstrated in DstOut Composition.

Up until IM version 6. Consequently most IM users had little chance of understanding this operator. However which should contain the gray-scale lighting image is unclear. Using source can produce full black and white results, using destination however can not produce these extremes. If anyone has some definitive reference, please let me know. Here I show the color changes achieved as a result of using pure black, white and a perfect-gray color overlays.

In actual fact I confirmed that it was implemented correctly according to the official SVG specification. Unfortunately, it was the specification, not the implementation, that was incorrect. It was fixed in the March SVG specification. As such for IM v6. For example, make a grey scale moon image which is easy to draw , then use it as a mask for a blue plasma gradient , to produce a nice mottled looking blue moon.

This is especially important for JPEG images which do not contain any transparencies by default. Both images are dissolved to full transparency. Equivalent to a ' Clear ' compose method. Equivalent to a ' Dst ' compose method. Equivalent to a ' Over ' compose method. Equivalent to a ' Src ' compose method. The " -dissolve " compositing method is commonly used as an alternative way of Watermarking with Images , particularly with color watermarks.

Blend Two Images Together The " -blend " compositing method provides what the " -dissolve " compositing method was originally intended to provide, before it was hijacked for other more basic operations. Where as the " -dissolve " method overlays images on top of each other, " -blend " merges images together such that both images are treated equally being just added together , according to the percentage arguments given.

As such you can achieve the same result except in final image size by swapping the percentages and the image arguments. This is not the case with " -dissolve " method. In otherwords, " -blend " is associative arguments are swappable , while " -dissolve " is not. By giving two percentages you can control exactly how much of the two images are to be merged together.

Here is a table of results with various dissolve arguments As with " -dissolve ", the background image must contain an alpha channel for " -blend " to work correctly, to dissolve the background image. Equivalent to a ' Plus ' compose method. This is equivalent to the " -average " image sequence operator, but with two images. See also Averaging Images Blend verse Dissolve While both Dissolve and Blend will make images semi-transparent " -dissolve " composes the image using ' Over ', while " -blend " merges the images using ' Plus '.

This may not seem like much, but it can be very important, as it definines how the two composition methods handle parts of the image which are not overlaid, or in areas where the overlay is transparent. For example. Extrapolation ability was added to the " -blend " operator in IM v6. No change is made to the destination image at all. For other watermarking techniques see, Watermarking with Images. Using a Compose Mask to Limit the Composed Area The " composite " command and " -composite " operator will also take a third masking image which will limit the area effected by the " -compose " method.

For example given two images, and a mask image you can overlay part of the source image onto the background image, as defined by that mask. Please note however that the background image still defines the final size of the resulting image. Here is a similar example, but this time I use a gradient mask the same size as the background image so as to blend the two images together, producing a 'shallows' effect.

The above was a major long term bug involving composite masking when you involved source or overlay images with transparency, and or attempted to use other alpha compositions other than the ' Over ' compose method. See Composite Mask Bug for details. The " -tile " setting in " composite " is very different to that same setting in either " convert " or " montage ". Privacy Terms. ImageMagick Skip to content. Quick links. Usage questions are like "How do I use ImageMagick to create drop shadows?

What units are the value? English Metric Units? Also, is there a corresponding -draw primitive? It adds between every character. As such for a string of characters, it will add extra space in spots! It may also be ignored for vertical or horizontal tabs and formfeeds, but again I can't be certain has I have not tested ir even generally used such characters for some time.

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You could also choose to install with brew (brew install imagemagick). plus it has better image / layer selection and resizing tools that may be better suited for. The actual tool you want to use from Imagemagick is the convert tool. plus it has better image / layer selection and resizing tools that may be better suited for. that we had some strange blending modes like Minus, Modulate, Bumpmap, and Subtract. a small group of people (about plus MacHeist promo purchasers). is it just a fancy GUI around ImageMagick or something else? if it's not an obscure bug, you can bet that it'll be reported by a bunch of.