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If i solder two vAC wires together as above, will the electricity flowing through make the solder melt away? Reply 4 years ago. Hi Cristian, If the wires are properly sized for the current you need, then the solder will not get hot enough to melt. I'm guessing you're trying to use current from your wall outlets? You'll be using 12 or 14 gauge wire, depending on the amperage needed by your project. Wires inside power transformers for your home appliances are often soldered to the circuit board.

The problem would be if your wires are too small for the current you use, they would get too hot. An example would be if you used a headphone wire to try to power your fridge. There would be too much electricity flowing through a small conductor and the whole length of the wire would get hot.

The plastic insulation would be more likely to melt before than the solder, however. Stranded wire for higher voltages is much better when soldering larger wires. The solder will 'wick' into the strands and provide a much better electrical connection. There isn't much of a mechanical bond if you try to solder large solid copper wires together thinking house wiring style wire here.

Never rely on just solder to hold things together, especially when dealing with lethal currents. Home improvement stores will sell crimp-on style connectors that will let you splice 12 or 14 ga. Combining soldering with one of these mechanical methods will yield the best electrical connection. It must be done in a junction box using appropriately sized wire nuts.

Be sure to insulate your splices! I am building my own CNC and i need to solder some wires from my wall plug to multiple components that require vAC, and i wasn't sure if it would pose a resistance to the electricity flowing thus melting the solder. Introduction: Soldering Wires Together. By golond Follow. More by the author:. Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It! YoungmokY 4 years ago.

Reply Upvote. CristianT15 4 years ago. Hello, Have a very important question: can you solder the same way as you mention above for big wires that will transmit vAC? Thank you very much. What do you guys recommend we set our soldering iron's temperature to when using this? Any useful tips? I've seen that once or twice. Are there any toxicity concerns with it in the solder? CDC indicates that it's dangerous even in low levels.

Yeah, I read through these. Scary stuff. I've got some of this solder and I'm probably not going to use it now. I sent them an email asking for the MSDS sheets post them? Edit: They emailed me and posted it. However, antimony trioxide is not formed during soldering or reclamation processes.

Quoted from A Study of Antimony in Solder. Just noticed something on the label; this is RoHS compliant as it contains no peanut butter. Lead is Pb, not PB! One tip: brush on some flux before reworking this solder. Great stuff. This is the best lead-free solder that I have ever used, at any price. You can pay less and struggle more if you wish. It is also 0. I use a 15 Watt fixed wattage iron and it melts just fine Hakko Dash 15W.

Lower silver content solders require higher wattages and can produce more damage and scorch. The washable flux comes off easily, but does tend to blacken on the iron. It wipes off cleanly. The very low antimony content does not concern me - I don't eat the stuff. I have done soldering since childhood but have only recently started to experiment with lead-free. It has been frustrating. I got this in the hopes that it would be easier to use. I am not sure what I'm doing wrong, but it is much worse.

The flux in this stuff is extremely acrid much nastier to breathe at the same temperature as the Radio Shack mix. It flows poorly and wets poorly, forming very high, peaked "beads" on my PCB solder pads. The frozen joints look much worse than the Radio Shack lead-free: they look like cold joints. Worst of all, the flux carbonizes on my iron tip instantly -- just one bit, and it has crusty black stains on it and its heat conductivity quickly plummets until after just a few joints it is unusable.

That's starting after a thorough cleaning, and the black gunk is extremely difficult to get off -- wet sponge won't do it, dry sponge won't do it. I'm really disappointed. I'm experimenting with a temperature-controlled iron at temperatures in the range of about F. The Radio Shack lead-free seems to work really well at about , allowing me to complete a connection in under ten seconds. I'm cranking it up, and lifting pads, with the same iron.

Am I supposed to need to douse everything with more flux? I haven't had to, working on these kits with other lead-free solders. I am planning to get myself a new Hakko soldering station after Christmas, and I'll see if those tips work better, but so far -- really disappointed and can't recommend. What is supposedly "better" about this solder? I decided to stick it out and play with some different temps until finding something that didn't scorch so easily.

I have the same problems with this stuff that you're describing. This makes for some crappy joints, some bad fumes I'm sure , and some nice black marks on my iron's tip that don't appear to come off. And, just like this member above, I'm sticking with the Radio Shack version. Perhaps I'll try playing with some different temperature settings, but in my opinion that should be part of the product description. I am personally very unsatisfied with this solder, or any solder that will burn and ruin my iron tips.

Does the antimony make it much easier to work with? I'd never heard of it, but the links pstemari posted two years ago make it look like pretty unpleasant stuff. I've been using that well for nine months and find it very easy to work with, and I don't care about being RoHS compliant since I'm only making things for me, but I do have a one year old daughter, so I'd like to use something safer.

According to this comment , the silver and copper are more toxic than the antimony. Antimony is added, in part, to avoid "tin pest" in high tin content alloys. Yeah this solder works great, with flux. Definitely clean your pcb "thoroughly" after. Wash hands before eating any food as solder and or flux can transfer into mouth causing irritable nausea syndrome convincing your wife that her cooking is as good as her aunts left foot.

Take out the trash when your finished. Timmy face Ventilation should be required, as simple as soldering next to a window fan blowing out. A word of caution about water soluble flux. If not cleaned off with water preferably hot it will leave residue on your PCB that can eat away at the copper and cause trace and component faults. It is even more noticeable on fine pitch SMT components. When I used it in the past we always ran boards through a dishwasher but you can't have non sealed parts on the boards like pots etc.

I was skeptical about trying Pb-free again, but this solder is pretty damn good! It doesn't seem to suck through holes as much as the leaded stuff capillary action , and sometimes doesn't immediately wet the iron tip.

With a little practice, however, your joints will turn out fine. The flux-residue cleans off nicely with distilled water and cotton swabs no propanol, as others suggest, is necessary , for a beautifully shiny finished project. I would recommend this solder to others. How about a solder which is easy to clean but also uses a high resistance flux, so that thorough cleaning is not absolutely critical. It's just not feasible at times. Add to those specs "no clean" and you're making miracles happen :.

Just wanted to check in and say that I can definitely vouch for this solder. I use it with the water-wash flux pen, which is a must if you're going to use this solder. I solder it at about Celsius and plenty of the flux. Just gotta clean off your soldering iron frequently, or the flux burns up and leaves some black carbony stuff on the iron. It's easy to clean off, though, so no worries. Coming from someone who's worked both with electronics and stained glass, I can honestly say that a eutectic leaded solder is the best to work with.

While I haven't tried this specific solder, I have tried about every other lead-free solder and I always go back to leaded - it flows better, wets better and melts more uniformly. So despite a small environmental concern, I will continue to use and appreciate good leaded solder. Plus, I have no plans on throwing out my projects anytime soon and I always vacuum reclaim used solder.

I prefer not to use flux as it can leave a mess and clean parts usually solder just fine without it. With Eutetic Solder when it drops 1 degree it goes from liquid to solid. I've used this type of solder before from a local supplier and I can confirm that it is indeed the best solder in the world!!

Can't wait to get some, the local guys stopped selling it about 4 years ago. It's nice to finally see a smaller size of this stuff, more affordable for us starving students. Thanks for the great offering guys! Also, the cool SparkFun logo adds to the street-cred, making it that much more desirable. This solder melts easily, but holds a firm grip. Even with mediocre soldeing skills, some of my classmates' cold joints made using this solder have held in mechanical connections.

I highly recommend this solder.

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The Charlie Show /// Episode 186 /// Soldering ESC Wires

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